Can I apply Danish or teak oil on a pressure timber?

Yes, but with some caveats; PTL (Pressure treated Lumber), if NEW construction, has a high moisture content. It may need to dry out and may also need some finish sanding before you apply the Oil finish. both Danish and Teak oil are not recommended for Decks or floors.

I would also recommend Teak Oil, as Danish oil is primarily for indoor use (but can be used outdoors). Note the Description on the Amazon page for Watco Teak Oil.

“Although I do like teak oilas a finish for exterior wood, it’s not usually recommended for decks. Foot traffic is the reason why. The grit and abrasion that happens to any deck will wear out an oil finish pretty quick.”

  • “new pressure-treated wood (requires a 6 – 8 week weathering period) or lumber that is water-repellent treated (requires a minimum 12 month weathering period).
  • Always remove any mildew, fungi, or nail rust prior to application with either oxalic acid or a bleach solution. Always clear water rinse the surface after cleaning.”

Welcome to the Chenkin Workshop!

Dad's Table Saw

Woodworking is a craft that is non-exclusive, and inclusive; almost everyone can do it!

My father was a woodworker, a mechanic, and a teacher.

I was blessed to have access to his creative side, and his ability to make all sorts of items, from tables and toys to additions on houses.  He shared his advice and skills, and was always open to building something in our basement workshop at home, or at his “Industrial Arts” workshop at Thomas Edison High School, in Jamaica, Queens, New York City.


When I started a career in Woodworking and Cabinetry, and opened my first workshop, my Dad was there for me.  Almost every Saturday he came by, with a project or two, and suggestions on how to improve the flow or make a better product.

I am carrying on in his tradition.  My son, a career Firefighter and Paramedic, has a great set of tools and fearlessly will tackle projects – calling me for advice and suggestions on how to build a model, or showing off the latest work in his apartment.  His son is now calling on Grandpa (Me!) to build his Desk, the hutch on top of it, and a footlocker for special GI Joe toy soldiers.  This is an honor and a calling to carry on the tradition, and see how my children are capable to build, create, and feel proud that they have furniture that will outlast their use and hopefully be used by their children.

I am proud that my daughter calls on me whenever she has to do something – and knows that Dad “has her back”, whenever tools and fixing things are involved!

Oak and Pine desk built for my Grandson

This Blog is part of the story – you can see projects in work;  answers to woodworking questions (from my family and friends, and from the community).  I am a most-viewed author on the Quora website, and freely share my knowledge and approach to woodworking.

Feel free to read on, both here and on The Chenkin Report (My original blog).  I also appreciate any comments or questions, and will answer as my schedule allows.
Having a blog means I can publish more links to products and sources, so you can see products on Amazon and Ebay as well as my writing.
Thank you for reading, for learning a bit about woodworking, and joining me on the journey to understand, build, and create with wood.
With appreciation,
Founder of MPA Woodworking, Farmingdale, NY (1980-1999)
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Free lance Carpenter for hire, Photographer, “Mr. Fixit”

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Why did Kleanstrip remover change my wood (rosewood) to dark grey? How can I reverse this?

typical rosewood grain
Alan Chenkin, Owned a cabinet shop for 10 years, is an avid woodworker.
Rosewood is unique in the wood world, as this wood is a dense hardwood that can take 300 years to mature.[1] [2]
Kleanstrip remover is used for removing adhesives from most surfaces. In the case of Rosewood, the adhesive remover (especially if it contains chemicals that are related to lemon oil) will strip any light finish off the wood, like bleaching the wood. (I am assuming your Rosewood furniture had a thin finish, from age or wear; many modern polyurethanes and lacquers are usually impervious to light oil strippers) . Kleanstrip is brushed on thick and left on the wood for 30 minutes; in that time, it will soften and eat through the finish, and bleach the wood. Even though I usually require more detail, that is what appears to have happened here.
“Sunlight bleaches rosewood and transforms its naturally dark, rich tone into a sandy tan color. The best way to restore the color is with wood dye, which soaks deeper into the wood pores than pigment satin. After brushing or spraying the dye, two or three subsequent coats of wiping varnish, each followed by light sanding with 400-grit sandpaper will seal in the color. You can also wipe on thin shellac and rub it in — a technique known as French polishing. Rosewood is such an attractive material that an industrial-strength coating like polyurethane seldom suits it.” – From SFGATE Home Guide on Sanding Rosewood.
Here is a discussion on Rosewood and oil finishes, worth a quick read, From Design Addict.
It also appears that the stripper is still active, and needs to be “deactivated” with Oxalic Acid, or Kleanstrip After-wash (Klean-Strip QKSW94341 Paint Stripper After Wash, 1-Quart). The additional solvents you used actually thinned the stripper and allowed it to “bleed” into the adjacent wood, making the bleaching more noticeable. When you apply the After-wash or acid, you can use clean sawdust rubbed over the wood to absorb the residue, or clean rags to blot with. Once you deactivate the stripping action, very light sanding and finishing can commence. If the stripper pulled a lot of the oils and coloring out of the wood, and the wood itself is too dark, you can lighten it with a peroxide solution from a hair salon – BUT DO THIS WITH EXTREME CAUTION; just as blonde hair is damaged by too much “work”, it can over-lighten the wood and make it stressed. Your goal is to bring back the original, warm finish, and another lightening step may cause additional damage. And you have to deactivate the peroxide with warm water. This is an extreme step, and only if you fear there is no other way to get to a good “starting point” with the raw wood.Remember to leave a day or two between stripping and cleaning, so the wood has a chance to breathe in between the steps.
Now that we have some background on Rosewood and some options, let me weigh in on what I would personally do. If your piece has a large area to refinish, I would hand-sand lightly with a 320 or finer grit sandpaper. If it is a thin veneer, you would need to be extra careful, as you could sand through the veneer to the substrate.
Then I would wipe the piece with a clean rag with alcohol on it, to remove any oils and dust.
Once you are down to an even and clean finish, you need to make a judgement call as to just seal in the wood with alcohol-based shellac, or Tung oil, or bring up the reddish color by using a wiping finish,
Traditionalists use shellac[3] ; it’s an old finish that works well to seal in wood. several coats usually do the trick, and it can be colored with dyes like burnt umber to add tone.
Tung Oil[4] dries when exposed to air, and seals-in the natural shade of the wood (as long as the bleaching is gone).
Wiping Polyurethanes, such as Minwax Polyshades can be worked into the wood using a rag, and act as a “tinting” Finish that will color over the Gray wood. Semi-transparent stains will also work.

You may want to buy some pieces of Rosewood, strip them with any remaining Kleanstrip, and test your finish options. You can even buy Rosewood pieces on Amazon.

Bolivian Rosewood, From Amazon.


Once the piece is finished to your liking, you can protect the finish with wax(just like waxing a car). (Don’t use lemon wax or polish – lemon and citrus can have a bad reaction with rosewood if the polish gets past the sealer/finish)
My personal choice would be a tinted oil finish -like Tung oil or Danish oil- to penetrate into the wood and bring back the rich red color. Several coats may be necessary to build up a rich finish, and even out the wood finish.
If the project is larger than what you want to undertake, or if it is a very valuable piece of furniture, consider using a professional furniture finisher. It may give you piece of mind and less stress, if you never did this before.
Thanks for the A2A, and good luck with your project! (This Post is an edited version of my answer to this question on

[4] Tung oil – Wikipedia

Thanks for reading my Blog, and best of luck with your projects!  Feel free to like, Upvote, and Share!


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