This illustrates a typical cover. Order them NOW, before the winter – Local stores will run out of these, and they are so much easier to put on than wrapping the spigot with insulation, towels, etc.
If it is unusually cold, old timers would leave a small drip of water running, since moving water does not freeze. I would only do this in an extreme situation.
If you don’t cover the spigot, and it does freeze, you will have to have it repaired or replaced. this will cost a lot more than a cover. It is also a good idea to drain your hoses and bring them inside, or in a shed or garage, where they are shielded from the elements.
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Contact cement is applied to BOTH surfaces to be bonded, allowed to dry until tacky, then the surfaces are pressed together (you only get one shot – Contact cement is a “Glue to Glue bond”, and sticks fast and holds tight). Contact cement is applied with brush or roller, sticks to everything, like your fingers, so you have to be really accurate. Contact cement also requires a clean environment, you have to keep any dust or dirt from being caught under the material! You also have to have good ventilation, and solvent to clean up.
Make sure the adhesive you use is compatible with the items you are gluing!
This entry expanded and edited from my answer in Quora.
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Yes, but with some caveats; PTL (Pressure treated Lumber), if NEW construction, has a high moisture content. It may need to dry out and may also need some finish sanding before you apply the Oil finish. both Danish and Teak oil are not recommended for Decks or floors.
I would also recommend Teak Oil, as Danish oil is primarily for indoor use (but can be used outdoors). Note the Description on the Amazon page for Watco Teak Oil.
“Although I do like teak oilas a finish for exterior wood, it’s not usually recommended for decks. Foot traffic is the reason why. The grit and abrasion that happens to any deck will wear out an oil finish pretty quick.”